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法国美食灵魂「乳酪cheese」

放大字体  缩小字体 发布日期:2011-07-22
核心提示:乳酪有很多别名,又名干酪或奶酪,或从英语(cheese)直译作芝士、起士或起司,是一种用奶放酸之后增加酶或细菌制作的食品。本文重点介绍了法国顶级乳酪精炼师菲力浦•玛律尚(Philippe Marchand)于香港首届乳酪节上特别推荐的他最心仪的5款乳酪~敬请“享受”^_^


Josephine:
Named after Napoleon's wife, the firm cheese is made from the milk of sheep from the Pyrenees mountains. It is refined for a minimum of one year in natural caves, which gives it earthy notes. 'The main taste of the cheese is fruit,' says Mr. Marchand. 'And that light fruitiness is more suitable for the Asian palate [than smelly cheeses].' (656 Hong Kong dollars, or US$84, per kilogram)

Napoleon: The Josephine was modeled after the Napoleon, which hails from sheep from Mont Saint Rigaud, a mountain along Napoleon's passage through the Alps. 'The Napoleon is lighter and less fruity than the Josephine. And there's no nuttiness,' says Mr. Marchand. 'It is overall a milder cheese.' (HK$698 per kilogram)

Wasabique: Inspired by trips to Japan, Mr. Marchand, who created Wasabique, adds a small amount of fresh wasabi during the curdling stage of cheese-making. The goat's-milk cheese is eaten fresh-within three weeks-and has a soft feel with the lightest zing of spice from the wasabi. (HK$390 per kilogram)

Le Gros Lorrain: An ancestor of Munster cheese-not to be confused with the American Muenster cheese, which has a bright orange rind and tastes similar to sharp cheddar or jack cheese-this is a soft but strong-tasting cheese made in Vosges, in Alsace-Lorraine. Le Gros Lorrain is the larger version of Munster, and is about 50 centimeters in diameter and nine centimeters thick. Made from the milk of a special breed of cows in Montpellier, of which fewer than 100 remain, the cheese is aged for three to five months. The rind of the cheese is also washed regularly with Mirabelle, a type of plum liquor, which gives it a distinctive sweetness. 'This is a 'forgotten cheese,'' says Mr. Marchand. 'The recipe disappeared in the '30s, and I recovered it from my grandmother.' (HK$232 per unit)

Reblochon Fermier d'Alpage: 'This is not like ordinary Reblochon you'd find in your supermarket,' says Mr. Marchand. 'It comes from the Alps, and is best during the spring season when farmers go high into the mountains, and the cows graze on the grass.' The spring milk used in the cheese has a floral aroma because of all the flowers in bloom eaten at the time. The cheese is firm, with an almost molten core and mildly nutty taste, and is aged for a minimum of two months. (HK$488 per kilogram).


参考译文:
约瑟芬(Josephine):这款乳酪以拿破仑(Napoleon)妻子约瑟芬的名字命名,这种硬乳酪由产自比利牛斯山区的绵羊奶制成,至少要在天然岩洞中精炼一年,使其带有泥土的气息。玛律尚说,这款乳酪的主要味道是水果味,和气味浓烈的乳酪相比,这种散发淡淡果香的乳酪更适合亚洲人的味蕾。(每公斤售价656港元,或84美元)

拿破仑(Napoleon):这款乳酪由产自圣里高山(Mont Saint Rigaud)的绵羊奶制成,当年拿破仑在穿越阿尔卑斯山的途中经过了这座山。约瑟芬乳酪的灵感便是源自这款乳酪。玛律尚说,拿破仑乳酪的味道比约瑟芬乳酪清淡,果味较弱,没有坚果味道。整体来看,这是一款较为温和的乳酪。(每公斤售价698港元)

芥末乳酪(Wasabique):这款乳酪由玛律尚发明,灵感来自他的日本之旅。他在乳酪制作过程中的凝固期往其中加入了少量的新鲜芥末。这款山羊乳酪要在三周内趁鲜食用,尝起来口感柔软,同时还有一种芥末的轻微辛辣味。(每公斤售价390港元)

Le Gros Lorrain:这是法国门斯特干酪(不要和美国的门斯特乳酪混淆)最早的原型之一,它有一层明亮的橙色外皮,味道接近浓烈的切达干酪或杰克乳酪。这是一种柔软但味道浓烈的乳酪,产自阿尔萨斯-洛林地区(Alsace-Lorraine)的孚日山(Vosges)。Le Gros Lorrain 是门斯特乳酪的放大版,直径大约有50厘米,厚度有9厘米。它是用蒙特利埃地区(Montpellier)经过特殊喂养的母牛的奶制成的,目前这种母牛的数量不足100头。这种乳酪要经过三至五个月的熟化。还要定期用黄香李酒清洗它的外皮,从而使其具有一种独特的甜味。玛律尚说,“这是一种‘被遗忘的乳酪’,其配方在20世纪30年代失传,我从我的祖母那儿学到了它的配方。”(每块售价232港元)

Reblochon Fermier d'Alpage:玛律尚说,它和你能在超市找到的普通勒布罗匈乳酪不一样。它来自阿尔卑斯山,最好是选用春季出产的牛奶,这时农场主们会进山放牧,母牛能吃到鲜嫩的绿草。这款乳酪中所用的春季牛奶有一股花香味,因为这个时期牛会吃下很多盛放的花朵。这种乳酪质地坚硬,但其核心部分几乎是融化的,有温和的坚果味道,至少需要熟化两个月。(每公斤售价488港元)。
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